Check out our updated route map! By clicking on a location marker, you can find out more details about our journey.

A less appetising choice of cuisine.

The best and the worst of travel is often found in the food. I’ve been surprised and put off by a deep-fried baby chicken -beak and all- on my breakfast plate and humored by the delight found by others indulging in offal barbecue. Thai food on the other hand, is a consistent display of food genius, opposite to both the disasters and consistently good, yet mundane.

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Epic Nujiang

China trekking “Do you guys think it’s a bad omen that we are starting our trek on Friday the 13th?”, asks BJ with a grin. Well prepared with our sneakers and Everest worthy thermal blankets, we embark on a three day hike out of the Nujiang Valley. Continue Reading »

Employed by the bank of China she had fantastic benefits – shuttle service to work, shopping vouchers galore and a salary that allowed her to buy an apartment at age 26 – a mere dream for the majority of China’s workforce. And then she quit. SF and her husband are visibly agitated as they remember her regular 24 hour working days and tell of colleagues who sleep in the lobby at work. There is simply too little time to go home. As if emphasis is needed, they site this year’s ten stress related suicides at a Foxconn factory and assure me that this is not uncommon in China.

bar in Kunming, China Continue Reading »

Drunken Major

Tibetan Karaoke

China is a land of a billion people and by western standards, a place of questionable social policies and social control. Venturing through China’s expansive southwest province of Yunnan, we encountered China’s most culturally diverse area in terms of number of minority groups, or people of non-Han Chinese origin. Many of the minorities we met offered us their ethnic identity as to distinguish themselves from the Han Chinese, displaying an evident division. A couple young men even described how they had recently been beaten up by groups of Han Chinese men.

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We are family

What could possibly be noteworthy about yet another bus journey? Surely, I must be running out of things to say. Indeed, that is my own hope as I embark on the 24 hour journey from Pleiku, Vietnam near the Cambodia border, to Hanoi. A boring and restful trip would be perfect. Things are looking promising: AC works and the seats recline surprisingly far. So far in fact that I could quite comfortably pluck the eyebrows of the man seated in front of me as he reclines into my lap for a mid-morning nap. This closeness feels a touch too familial.

Instead I take the chance to investigate his long thumbnail.

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Pleiku, an altogether nondescript Vietnamese town becomes a forced, one-night stopover on the way to Hanoi from northeastern Cambodia. No map, no Vietnamese Dong, and we don’t know where the center of town is or where to find a cheap hotel.

Ryan remains at the bus station with our luggage as I shuffle off to source some money. The asphalt is burning under my feet and I can feel my skin sizzle as I trot off along an empty highway, head hanging low. Nobody speaks English and I am at a loss as to where an ATM might be this far out of town.

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Heartbreak beach

Sucked into the swathes of mesmerizing beaches through Southeast Asia, each leaves its own impression. Some beaches are good for swimming, others for snorkeling, surfing or beach-combing. Varying shades of blue merge with white and crimson sand, soft or hard and sometimes dotted with pin-sized holes from small scurrying crabs. Cambodia’s southern hot-spot known as Serendipity Beach is no less beautiful, though displays a new, this time heart-wrenching tropical paradise. Continue Reading »